Wednesday, May 2, 2012

The End - At Last!



It is now the evening of Monday, April 30.  Having caught up on a number of lingering items both physical and mental, it’s a good time to address the final points of my trip and put this blog to bed.  And, of course, start to write new e-books about Armenia and Vietnam. 

It is a joy to actually have daylight extend past 8 p.m. again.  There is little variation in daylight hours in Hanoi….sunrise is uniformly 6 a.m. plus or minus 15 minutes, and sunset 6 p.m. plus or minus 30 minutes.  While winter days in Columbus are short and dreary, the extended summer nights make up for it.  In Hanoi, unfortunately, it is relatively rare to get out of the office, back to the hotel, and changed before darkness descends.  That tends to make one stay close to the hotel…the streets are confusing enough in the daylight!

I received quite a few comments on my training classes (2 days of product development, 3 days of sales skills, and 1 day of sales management).  Evidently, the training “norm” there is to put everything on PowerPoint (already off to a bad start!), hand out copies to each student (3 to a page), and sit while the “instructor” reads each slide to the students.  Of course, there are 2 or 3 quizzes each day to make sure students don’t nap too long.  It truly sounds like the same educational philosophy that prevails among our politicians.

Anyway, I spent more than half of the time in each course on group work, and a significant portion of the remainder in discussion, calling directly on those who didn’t volunteer.  And the students truly responded.  While I have slim hopes for the success of this immediate project, perhaps there will be some innovative teaching or mentoring approach invented by one of my students in the future, and it will spark others to learn better.  Too bad I’ll never truly know, but that would be a true measure of success for the effort.

The training rooms were absolutely sweltering, especially for the sessions held offsite.  We couldn’t get the A/C working properly, and the fans were only able to go at about half speed.  I found out later that particular building is programmed to have air conditioning start on May 1, regardless of the ambient temperature.  My jacket and tie lasted less than ten minutes into the first class.

It was better in the bank’s training center…perhaps word of my aversion to heat and humidity preceded me.  By then, I had also learned to get to the classroom by 7:30 and set all five of the A/C units down to 16 C.  That kept it reasonably bearable for the day, even when all 32 bodies crammed into the room.   Interestingly, I wasn’t the only one glowing in the 114 F heat index we experienced on my final training day.

One side benefit of training is that the cafeteria in each building prepares and serves lunch for all participants, saving us a bit of money and a lot of time hunting around for a decent place to eat in unfamiliar neighborhoods.  Sticky rice and bun cha are daily staples, augmented with several additional dishes such as shrimp, sautéed Viet cabbage, green beans, pork, chicken skewers, and the like.  I was constantly being asked if I would like a spoon, but managed to reasonably master chopsticks by the end of the trip.  My slowness at eating did seem to unnerve a few others in the class.  I also found it notable that nobody consumes beverages during a meal….and after-meal drinks are either hot tea or tepid water, regardless of the temperature in the room.  At times, I had to walk a couple of blocks to find a grocerette with sodas in the fridge.

As on my first trip, my tipping habits threw some locals for a loop.  The local advisor told me to never tip a taxi driver, but several whom I did tip got to recognize me and more than gave me extra service later in the trip.  Of course, we’re typically talking about bumping a taxi fare up by about 50 cents, which makes a tremendous difference for someone who might make $10 on a good day.  Restaurant servers, while still not expecting to be tipped, seem progressively less surprised when it does occur.  A minor benefit is that it also avoids receiving a bunch of 2,000 dong (10 cent) notes in change.

Employees of and guests in the hotel continued to be thoroughly impressed by my work ethic – I never went to meals without my laptop with me.  Everybody assumed I was working, while I actually spent 90% of mealtime chatting online with Nancy.  Several guests also told me that the laptop at meals was the first hint that I was American. 

The final day of the project was rather laid back.  It started with a meeting at the IFC office (the IFC-head of this project flew in from New Zealand for the meeting) where we finally agreed on what went wrong, what needed to be fixed, and a sequence of tasks for fixing the project.  Unfortunately the project will need to be extended if it is to succeed, but any intelligent being knew that a year ago.  The political games being played with the original schedule at the IFC and Bank level were ridiculous…they actually wanted me to complete all of my marketing training, mentoring, implementation, and analysis in one trip lasting six weeks.  Two trips totaling eight weeks were already too short.

The remainder of the day (10:30 on) was spent with the SME department head, Huyen, as we went over all of the pending and completed tasks in minute detail.  There was a nice break in the middle as she took all of us from the meeting to a local restaurant for lunch….fried tofu, pan-roasted catfish, 6-inch stuffed shrimp, salads, etc.  The highlight was watching the chef deliver oven-roasted rice cakes….they are made in thin clay containers, and the cakes are liberated by the chef tossing the container in the air, striking it with a stick, and catching the rice cake before it hits the floor along with the clay shards.

Huyen also arranged for one of the bank’s drivers (they have dozens…profit margins on loans are quite fat) to pick me up at the hotel at 9 p.m. to depart for the airport.  Much appreciated….and easier than grabbing a cab. 

So I am now finishing this final blog post on the afternoon of May 1.  Were I still in Hanoi, this would be the end of a 4-day weekend….Monday, April 30, was the anniversary of our retreat from South Vietnam (Liberation Day), and today is international Labor Day for those jurisdictions that recognize the importance of everyday laborers over financiers.  Of course, I would not have gotten paid for either day off, one of many reasons why it is better to be home.  If the project is extended, there may be another trip to VN in the fall…but this time Nancy will be coming with me and we will make side trips to Ha Long Bay and Ho Chi Minh City.  Until that possible re-start of this dissertation, thanks for reading, and know that you have missed going to a beautiful country and fascinating culture.




Sunday, April 29, 2012

Winding Up My Second Trip


Friday, April 20, 2012

Well, folks, it has been a long time since I have sent you an update.  It’s 10:30 at night local time, and I’m sitting in the airport café at Hanoi International, sucking down espresso and ice cream and charging the PC batteries enough to get me to Seoul.  That is just over a 4-hour flight from here, landing at 6 a.m. their time.  4 hours to kick around, then I kill 13+ hours directly to Atlanta.  Less than 3 hours there, and I should be landing in Columbus about 4:30 p.m. Saturday.

There is a lot to talk about since my last blog post almost two weeks ago.  Let’s see if I need to break the narrative into more than one blog.

Last weekend, Tu tracked me down on Facebook…he is the high school student who rescued me from being lost, and led me to the B-52 remains.  Anyway, he is also an apprentice jazz sax player, and invited me to any of three open-air concerts his band was giving at the Luala fest, near the Opera House.  Unfortunately, Tu’s teacher was there all weekend, and he bumped Tu from playing at all.  Regardless, I did make most of the Sunday morning concert, and the smooth jazz was quite enjoyable.  I took Tu out to lunch afterwards at a lakeside café, and he regaled me with tales about Viet legends, local shamans, and similar stories I would never have heard.  He will go far in life…intelligence, personality, and a drive to always learn more about almost any topic.

I spent a few days in the bank proper last week, and most of the rest of the time since then was spent training.  The first week’s training, 2 days, covered product development and was held at leased rooms in the stock exchange training center (preventive maintenance ceased about 20 years ago).  This week’s training, 4 days of sales and sales management, was held in the bank’s training center which was a much shorter cab ride away.

Regardless, the salient point is that the bank and training truly do shut down completely from 11:30 until 1:00.  Most people had a quick lunch, as there is a cafeteria in the bank and the training centers routinely have lunch and tea breaks for any classes.  Some may go out for errands, but the others recline in their chairs (or in a row of three folding chairs) and literally nap.  Lights are also turned off, so make sure you bring a flashlight if you stick around and want to read.

I continue to be astounded by the lack of customer service orientation.  While people are friendly to those they meet in person, there seems to be an innate inability to orient oneself to the customer’s POV.  This extends to areas such as only selling what the bank thinks the customer wants, or creating products that have absolutely no reason to exist except that some mucky-muck thinks they are neat or shiny.  More on that later in this drivel.

Breaking in the new team leader, Jane, has been a challenge…more so for her than for me.  At least I had 6+ weeks of experience in Hanoi…she has none.  The streets befuddle her, and she has a hard time picking up the local accents.  OTOH, she is a tireless worker, and is not afraid of hammering at a point until she totally understands it.  That is badly needed in this relatively rudderless project.  If I could pass on some of the deeper details about what is going on, you would think I was crazy to still be here.  At our IFC/Bank meeting today, Jane found out that she was expected to stay until early July (as opposed to May 29, June 4, and June 30 dates that had been suggested earlier).  No problem as far as she is concerned, but one would expect the project hierarchy to have its act together 9 months after it started.

Boarding starts in about 5 minutes…time to power down, pay the bill, and truly start back home.      

Saturday…very early morning in Columbus, and we are about to cross the Date Line on our way across the Bering Strait.  Both flights today have been absolutely jammed, and this one has its temp set at least five degrees above comfort.  Plus, this plane has no individual air vents for passengers.  Not a way to spend 13 hours.

The training classes went quite well…students were attentive, ready to speak up (after some initial coaxing), and did not object to the sales role plays even when I gave them no prep time.  I see one of the students has already posted a photo on Facebook from the class.  There were two disappointing aspects.  I rapidly found in the first week’s class that the bank product managers know how to write, but have no concept of using Excel to create sales and financial forecasts.  Inexcusable.  During the second day of the sales training class, it began to dawn on me that the branch managers had not yet been briefed on the new path the bank is planning, and how it would affect their customer mix, daily activities, and task responsibilities.  So I took it upon myself Thursday to give a half-hour summary of the project and what might occur and when.  That will probably annoy some mucky mucks in the bank, but the people in the training certainly should have been up to speed on why there is this sudden need for new training.

Anyway, the evaluations came in with very high marks.  Wednesday evening, the sales class (probably all but 5 of the 32 in the class) took me out to dinner at Bia Hoi, a rather famous and traditional open-air garden diner.  At the close of class on Thursday, they also presented both my interpreter and me with a kilo of Viet coffee.  Very nice of them, and maybe a response to my habit of rewarding them with candy throughout the trainings.